The Continental Divide – the magical part of it in southwestern New Mexico's Gila National Forest – seems far from civilization. But it's a fun, easy weekend trip you can make from El Paso, TX; Albuquerque, NM; or Tucson, AZ. Just 200 spectacular miles from El Paso, 250 from Tucson or Albuquerque.
You'll go up to 6,599 feet on your first crossing of the divide deep in the Gila National Forest. There are Mule Deer everywhere and you can easily add 18 bird species to what birders call a "life list" on a weekend.
Ancient forests beckon
The hills and valleys are a dark green Ponderosa Pine forest that looks pretty old, some trees may be more than 100 years old. But don't forget the Western Red Cedar. These cedars are plentiful and some of those could be 150 years old.
You'll be in and out of the small hamlet of Mimbres and back in a wide river valley. A valley that must have been much more dramatic perhaps 250,000 or more years ago when it was deeper.
Ride the Divide
You'll find Forest Rd. 150, the Continental Divide ride. Go north. The views! Perhaps more than 100 miles to the south and to the west.
You ride the Divide until you get to the turnoff for Hell's Canyon. Just a few miles more and you'll arrive at the Forest Service's Rocky Canyon Campground. Just a few miles beyond that, the Continental Divide Trail crosses Forest Rd. 150. It's the perfect time to get out of the car.
As someone said of the ride, "There are 5% grades, there are 7% grades and then there are mountain grades." One of the grades will surely be a 10% grade up to the top of a ridge. Gearing down means first gear and heavy use of the brake on the way back.
There are signs suggesting bad road conditions. It's best to check with the Forest Service about road conditions of Forest Road 150 before you go. It's possible to go many miles, even to Snow Lake, but that would mean proper outfitting for a several days camping trip. You can savor the magic of the Divide and be back to civilization before sunset.
Back to civilization
Later, you can explore the hamlet of Lake Roberts itself. But you are likely to come to a sharp halt at the Lake Roberts Motel where there may be a herd of Mule Deer happily grazing on the motel's lawn.
The Lake Roberts General Store might be open or closed but next to it are the vestiges of a Post Office on the corner. A row, on a large plank, of Postmaster-approved rural mailboxes. And, lo and behold, there's a big blue street mailbox. It gets emptied every day after the mailman is through with his deliveries. Great for sending postcards with a heartfelt "wish you were here" on them.
If you're staying at the Spirit Canyon Lodge & Café, Lake Roberts, NM, the owner may open the cafe. Try the salmon filet. Or the excellent deep-fried catfish. The cafe has restaurant-grade appliances that could make food for a restaurant full of hungry people. There are about 10 tables, a couple for six people.
The French fries are first-rate for seasoned and coated fries, all the rage for years now. The salmon is seared and then nicely grilled with a teriyaki sauce glaze. There's no fake vegetable medley. There are crisp greens for the salad. Dressing from a jar but decent. No beer or wine license. But you're welcome to bring your own with no corking fee charged. The restaurant bill for two can be as low as $29.35
There's another place to eat
On NM Route 35 , driving east from Lake Roberts, at Mile Marker 4, you arrive in Mimbres. First past the Upper Mimbres Volunteer Fire Department. Then houses and then the Mimbres Valley Café, Mile Post 4, Mimbres, NM 88049, 505-536-2857. It's a country Mexican café – you know, tables covered with colorful vinyl table cloths - with a half-page menu of Anglo food. Accommodating both cultures. But you'd better get your order in 15 minutes before they close at 7:30 PM five days a week and 2 PM Monday and Tuesday. It's far off the beaten path. As usual, there's a table reserved for the village elders, in this case about six of them. Ah, pity, this custom is disappearing from the American Southwest.
But then, this is southwestern New Mexico. It's magic, naturally.
Where to stay
- Lake Roberts Cabins & General Store, Lakew Roberts, NM
- Spirit Canyon Lodge & Café, Lake Roberts, NM
- Lake Roberts Motel & Cabins, Lake Roberts, NM
- Rocky Canyon Campground